Archiu:Deep water wave.gif
Summary
| Description |
English: Stokes drift in deep water waves, with a wave length of about twice the water depth. The ratio of wave height to wavelength is H/λ=0.092. [1]
Description of the animation: The red circles are the present positions of massless particles, moving with the flow velocity. The light-blue line gives the path of these particles, and the light-blue circles the particle position after each wave period. The white dots are fluid particles, also followed in time. In the case shown here, the mean Eulerian horizontal velocity below the wave trough is zero. Observe that the wave period, experienced by a fluid particle near the free surface, is different from the wave period at a fixed horizontal position (as indicated by the light-blue circles). This is due to the Doppler shift. The wave physics are computed with the Rienecker & Fenton (R&F) streamfunction theory; for a computer code to compute these see: J.D. Fenton (1988) "The numerical solution of steady water wave problems". Computers & Geosciences 14(3), pp. 357–368. The animations are made from the R&F results with a series of Matlab scripts and batch files.Deutsch: Stokes Drift in Tiefwasserwellen mit einer Wellenlänge gleich der doppelten Wassertiefe. Beschreibung der Animation: Die roten Punkte bezeichnen die augenblicklichen Positionen der masselosen Teilchen, die sich mit der Strömungsgeschwindigkeit bewegen. Die hellblaue Linie ist die Bahnlinie dieser Teilchen und die hellblauen Punkte bezeichnen die Partikelpositionen nach jeder Wellenperiode. Die weißen Punkte sind gleichzeitig bewegte Flüssigkeitsteilchen. Im gezeigten Fall ist die mittlere horizontale Euler-Geschwindigkeit unter dem Wellental Null. Man beachte, dass sich die Wellenperiode der Flüssigkeitsteilchen nahe der freien Oberfläche von derjenigen bezüglich einer festen Position (bezeichnet durch die hellblauen Punkte) unterscheidet. Dies ist auf die Doppler-Verschiebung zurückzuführen. |
| Date | |
| Source | Own work |
| Author | Kraaiennest |
| Other versions |
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| GIF development |  This diagram was created with MATLAB. |
Licensing
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Permission is granted to copy, distribute and/or modify this document under the terms of the GNU Free Documentation License, Version 1.2 or any later version published by the Free Software Foundation; with no Invariant Sections, no Front-Cover Texts, and no Back-Cover Texts. A copy of the license is included in the section entitled GNU Free Documentation License. |
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| Data/Hora | Miniatura | Dimensions | Usuari | Descripció | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| actual | 13:44 20 gin 2008 | | 390 × 256 (4,15 MB) | wikimediacommons>Kraaiennest |
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